Torque Wrenches, Torque Values, Torque Sticks, & Air Guns!

Torque wrenches cost from $25 to over $3000 (Grainger, Matco, Sears, Snap On). Grainger, Inc. torque wrenches 10 – 100 Ft pound or 40 -150 Ft pound run $63.35. A protective case for the wrench is about 7 or 8 dollars.  That is worth the added investment.

Optimum torque range: Most cars call for torque values in the 75 to 95 foot pound range. The closer the value to your intended need the more accurate the wrench will be.

Therefore here are some tips:

1. NEVER USE AN AIR GUN TO TIGHTEN LUG NUTS OR LUG BOLTS!

2. Always use a click type torque wrench if possible.

3. Don’t use a 90 to 250 foot pound range tool if a 50 to 150 Ft Lb wrench is
available. (A center range closest to the value you need is most accurate)

4. Don’t be in a hurry when you torque Lugs.

5. Snug lugs up finger tight and then torque to required value.

6. STOP! When wrench “clicks”! An extra little jerk or extra inch of travel and you might as well not use a torque wrench.

7. Always back off torque setting to the lowest value after you have tightened all the lugs. If the torque wrench is left in a high range it will eventually give a false reading.

8. Put the torque wrench away in it’s case. Don’t throw it in your tool box. Treat it like the fragile tool it really is.

9. By the way, don’t trust “torque Sticks” either. 

Some Torque Values for Lug Nuts/Lug  Bolts:

The “FrozenRotors Gang” ]]> http://www.frozenrotors.com/techtips/2008/12/15/torque-wrenches/feed/ 0 http://www.frozenrotors.com/techtips/2008/12/11/caliper-maintenance/ http://www.frozenrotors.com/techtips/2008/12/11/caliper-maintenance/#comments Thu, 11 Dec 2008 19:19:00 +0000 admin http://dev.frozenrotors.com/techtips/?p=56 What are the most neglected items when doing a brake job?

We found after helping several friends and others re-do their brakes, the most neglected items when doing a brake job were the caliper guide pins and pad slides.
 
These pins and slides corrode because of pad and rotor dust (very abrasive) and from not being lubricated properly.
 
When the pins corrode due to non-lubrication the caliper will not slide easily back and forth as it was designed. Because of this, the caliper will not withdraw the brake pads off the brake rotor after the brakes have been applied. This caliper malfunction will certainly spell doom for your newly installed brake parts. Sticking calipers will cause excessive pad and brake rotor wear.

A stuck caliper can also induce pad “smear” and can over heat the rotor at a given spot transforming that area of the rotor into “cementite” (sometimes called Iron Carbide – A very hard and brittle material).  This many times will cause the brake rotor to become out off true or commonly called “warping”.

 

Brake calipers (most) are designed to float on their pins and that is why they need to be lubricated. After applying your vehicles brakes a properly maintained caliper will retract the brake pads off the brake rotors.   
 
Solution: 

When doing the brake job remove the caliper and caliper carrier, clean and inspect the guide pins, (replace them if worn) wash out the guide pin boots with brake cleaner, blow dry the inside of the boots.  Lubricate the Guide pins liberally with high temperature grease.

 

The slides also must be cleaned, inspected, and greased. If you have stainless steel inserts on the slides check for wear and replaced if not smooth. These also should be lubricated but not heavily so that no grease gets on the pads(Greasy pads are worthless).
 
A tip from ” FrozenRotors” ® for better brakes! 
   

Industry standard suggests every 2 years.

Personally I like mine flushed once a year. Yeah, it’s a pain in the butt, but let’s put safety first! If you race or autocross your Vehicle I would bleed the system before each track outing.

The fluid in your brake reservoir should be the color of apple juice. The darker it gets the more moisture it has in it. The more moisture the lower the boiling point. In fact, fluid with a 3% moisture content drops the brake fluid boiling point by as much as 170 degrees F. The lower the boiling point the greater the possibility of creating bubbles in the caliper when things get hot. Fluid will not compress, bubbles will compress which may give you a mushy brake pedal or even one that will go right to the floor.

That means NO BRAKES!

Our Tech tip #1! Pick a date, like your birthday, graduation date, or whatever and flush your brake fluid on that day every year. If you race, bleed your brake system before every track event.

Our Tech Tip #2! Alternate a different color brake fluid each time you flush the system, then you know that you have all the old fluid out of the system.

Sincerely,

“The Frozen Rotor guys”

Vehicle Symptoms:

1. The brakes pulsate after driving down a step grade or after a heavy use but they don’t pulsate when driving under normal conditions.
2. The brake rotor run out is within factory specifications but the steering wheel is shaking under braking.
3. Their are blue or black streaks on the rotor at the pad to rotor interface area.

Repair Advice:

1. Turn/resurface the rotors to remove pad material build up. Take off as little as possible (.002″ max per cut)
2. Install brake pads that are designed for the vehicles service duty (proper heat range). Consult your brake specialist.
3. Check caliper operation to make sure a caliper is not dragging. Sticking calipers will over heat brake pads. Install new calipers if necessary.

Sincerely,

“The Frozen Rotor guys”

Street Duty
Brake only moderately and briefly during the first 200 miles over a mixed itinerary. Avoid prolonged pad to rotor contact.

Heavy Use (Police, Ambulance, and High Performance)
Have Technicians make 5 decelerations from 70 to 50 mph. Firm on the brake pedal. Drive approximately two or three miles to cool brakes then make 5 more decelerations from 70 to 40 mph. Firm on brake pedal. Don’t slam on brakes. Again, drive approximately two or three miles to cool brakes and then make 5 more decelerations from 70 to 30 mph. Cool brakes for two or three miles then park car and allow brakes to cool completely. When brake rotors return to ambient temperature repeat this entire process one more time. The brake rotors are how burnished and are ready for service!

Sincerely,

“The Frozen Rotor guys”